fifteen notes on…

a series of cheeky city guides

Paradise in the southern hemisphere has many ways to slice it, but there is a quality of life that is hard to beat anywhere else in the world. Howzit, my china!

Stay at Camps Bay Retreat on beach, Mt. Nelson on brand, or the Dorp on budgetClimb Table Mountain and take gondola down, trust me
Swim in the crystal clear and cool sea at Clifton 3 beach
Dine at the jewel of elevated comfort food restaurant casually know as Between Us
After dinner drinks with relatively good looking people at Athletic Club
Play padel at the pristine elevated court at the Camps Bay Retreat
Kite at Misty Cliffs and count your blessings when you clear out safely!
Tuck away off for a few off grid days in the idyllic town of Scarborough
Make any excuse to go to Giovannis daily
Stay fit with daily workout, sauna, and cold plunge at HYP studio
Proper night out at Halo
Dont leave sh*t in your car
Post up and people watch at #doingthework HQ outpost The Strangers Club
Make a day trip to Stellenbosch and do the well troten visit to Babylonstoren
Nourish and restore the mind, body, and soul at Bodhi Khaya in the Western Cape

This shabby chic paradise on the eastern shores of Kenya is no secret to only those who know about it. In the absence of an abundance of luxury hotels, hopefully, it stays that way.

Peponi Hotel is the island’s HQ - breakfast, lunch, dinner, sundowners, late night, and all the gossip in between
Shela is the social zone, but frankly Manda Bay is the place to stay.
Head to Cabanas on the East side of the island for a more toes-in-the-sand off-grid experience.
Start your days with a visit to the Banana House for daily yoga. Mambo.
Book lazy lunch at Kizingo and take a speed boat to the quiet side for the best-grilled fish around
Sunsets are best enjoyed from Majilis Resort overlooking Shela and western light
Bring cash. Cash is king.
Stay at Manda Bay Lodge for a quieter eco-luxury type of holiday
Visit Aman shop for chic patterned shirts and caftans
If you are a kite surfer, bring your gear, the spot is world-class but rental options are limited.
If you want to look like a local, wear a kikoi (local pareo) at all times
Try the delicious local samosas from the vendors throughout town
Book a dhao for a sunset sail or a relaxing day cruising through the mangroves
No need to rush here… as the locals say, take things “pole pole” (slowly)
Leave your shoes at home, you won’t need them

For years I had heard about the magical draw of the tiny sister island to Paros. The island is just difficult enough to get to that it remains buzzy but not oversaturated. With the all-too-perfect town, beaches, and mindset, it is hard to see why you would go anywhere else. Plus, you have good wind!

Stay at Beach House on Beach, The Rooster on brand, or Gastro on budget.
Captain Pipinos for local seafood taverna-style lunch.
Stopby Leto store for funky summer gear.
Pop into Boogaloo for a cheeky little dance boogie in town.
Dine at Sapou for some of the best high-end Greek food you will have anywhere in the Cyclades.
Rock up to Paroskite for a proper kite surf session any afternoon the Meltemi wind picks up.
Stop by Blender for a morning smoothie and healthy food kicks.
Late at night, all roads lead to La Luna the quintessential island nightclub!
Head to Faneromeni for an adventurous beach day.
Visit the deep Cave of Antiparos for your tourism checklist.
Rent a quad or scooter at Aggelos to get around the island.
Post up at The Rooster for sunset cocktails and an upscale summer dinner.
Head to Lollo’s for in-town dinner when you are craving pizza night
Cruise out to Paralia Monastiria for a picnic beach day on the south side of the island.
It is consistently windy, but wear sunscreen!

The vacation du jour these days seems like an extended stay in Baja California. For water sports enthusiasts, this is an aquatic paradise — world-class diving, kiteboarding, surfing, whale watching, you name it! On the west coast, there is a fast-growing community of ex-pats “extending their stay” indefinitely shall we say in Todos Santos. With a crowd that is a mix of retired gringos and lost&found surfers, you are sure to fit right in.

Stay at San Cristobal on the beach, Paradero on brand, Kaanopia on budget
Breakfast and wifi daily at La Esquina
Take a surf lesson at Cerritos Beach
Delicious farm-to-table dining at Jazamango and Hierbabuena
Bring essential oil bug spray
Plan a day trip to dive at the world-famous Cabo Pulmo
Hike the cliffs at Punta Lobos at sunset
Ask around about visiting the natural hot springs in the mountains
Rent a car with good wheels
Buy your girlfriend something nice at Nomad Chic
The ocean is beautiful, but currents are strong, swim at your own risk
Visit in November when the sea is warm and the heat is tolerable
Have an eclectic dinner at the low-key La Casita when you are sick of tacos
Tip 15% but don’t expect good service… mañana wheyy

I’m a bit late on this one, but alas I finally made my way to the funky tropical paradise of Holbox. As an aspiring but enthusiastic kiter, this is the perfect working destination. Like all wonderful places, it is clearly no longer a secret. However, in the absence of abundant luxury, hopefully, it stays rough around the edges and will be just the same for your upcoming visit.

Stay at Aldea Kuka on beach, Punta Caliza on brand, Alcobas Del Mar on budget
Morning digital nomad sessions at Clandestino or Painapol
Take a ride out to Punta Mosquito for crystal clear kite surf sessions
Barba Negra for delicious gourmet tacos
Taco Queto for delicious street tacos
Walk everywhere or get all-terrain golf cart to shuttle kite gear up the beach to launch
Casa Sandra Mojito beach club for chilling and lunch.
Visit in summer to see the majestic whale sharks
Cash is king, pesos on pesos
If you are looking for Tuluminati vibes, have dinner at Luuma
Play hoops in the town square with a collection of locals and no game ex-pats
Piedra Santa for the Instagramable dinner
Enjoy your days offline, wifi is virtually non-existent
Stay on the Northeast of the island to wake up directly on the moat pristine kite launch in Mexico
Wear sunscreen

“By day Lisbon has a naive theatrical quality that enchants and captivates, but by night it is a fairy-tale city, descending over lighted terraces to the sea, like a woman in festive garments going down to meet her dark lover.”
― Erich Maria Remarque, The Night in Lisbon

The city of the moment... at least for those who care about such things. Deep in Southern Europe lies a city with better beaches than Barcelona, better hipsters than Berlin, and a better climate than just about any city in Europe. On top of that, add a city with a groove that keeps getting groovier and you have the place to be right now.

Stay at Casa Santa Clara 1978 on business, Casa Oliver on budget
Have lunch at Cevicheria for a bright, airy, and delicious ceviche
Visit jet-set HQ at Yamba on Caprioche beach for green juice and deep house
Stopby hipster rooftop, Park Bar, for sunset cocktails and people sharing them
For your gastro fix, dine at the whimsical Mini Bar for a carnival-like tasting menu experience
Dance at Lux if the world ever re-opens, for the city's most proper club experience
Cervejara's are traditional Portuguese restaurants serving mainly seafood and beer, and Ramiro is the top pick
Weekend lunch at Restaurante Sal in Comporta, where all the sun-washed chic meet
Enjoy a homey classic Portuguese dinner across the river looking over the Lisbon skyline at Ponto Final
Listen to Lisbon by Slim and the Beast as you day-trip out to hidden beaches near Sintra
Refuel with healthy bowls at Fauna & Flora in the lovely Chiado neighborhood
Fulfill your cultural craving at Museu Nacional do Azulejo dedicated to the renowned Portuguese tilework
For the famous egg custard, visit the Pastéis de Belém which has been making them since 1837.
Matcha latte-sipping co-working central at the sleek white Dear Breakfast
Leave your current life and move to Lisbon.

“One belongs to New York instantly, one belongs to it as much in five minutes as in five years.”
― Tom Wolfe

I lived in New York City for the vast majority of my life. During this time, I can confidently say that I was one of those people who believed you were crazy if you wanted to live anywhere else. The Big Apple was it. I moved away a few years ago and I look back on that chapter with immense nostalgia, but I also find myself to be the crazy one for lasting there so long.

New York is a city of constantly evolving fads, but I believe the city is at best when you trust the institutions; so this list hopefully is still valid. A few words of advice: avoid trendy, visit staples. Drink the tap water. Walk everywhere.

Stay at the Crosby Street Hotel.
For old-world charm, have an early drink uptown at Bemelman’s piano bar.
Run the Central Park loop at sunrise with all the other alphas.
Visit the Hayden Planetarium at the Museum of Natural History (the coolest museum in the city).
Eat at Cafe Select. Not for the food, nor the service, but for the nonsense.
Take a ferry to Pioneer Works in Red Hook to see the latest wonky exhibit.
Play backgammon with the boys in Union Square Park. You will lose, but the banter is priceless.
Sit at the bar and eat a burger with well-done fries at J.G. Melons.
See an indie rock concert at Baby's All Right.
Go to Tomoe for lunch for excellent “hole-in-the-wall” sushi.
Drink mezcal away and boogie the night away at Amaya.
Eat a bacon, egg, and cheese on a toasted roll from a corner bodega. Any bodega will do.
Visit Mickey’s funky shop off the Bowery and buy a pair of Sabah slippers.
If you must eat pasta in NYC, go to Lilia in Williamsburg.
Go to a New York Rangers game at Madison Square Garden. The best team in NYC.

“Venice is like eating an entire box of chocolate liqueurs in one go.”
-Truman Capote

The notes folder on my phone is filled with dozens of quick-fire tips lists for many of the places I have visited. Rather than organize them in a functional way, I use this bullet point format of hot takes that I can easily share from my mobile. Based on your requests, I've decided to share these more broadly via this newsletter.

First on the list, perhaps the most beautiful city of all, Venice. Invaded by cruise ships and cheap tourism, Venice had sadly become an "adult Disneyland" over the last decade. However, with the quarantine lockdown, tourism has temporarily vanished and it was my distinct privilege to return to a virtually empty floating city this past weekend. Capote, was not wrong.

Stay at the Palazzo Experimental for a more bohemian stay.
Buy a pair of Furlane slippers where the locals do.
Visit San Marco square after dinner to avoid the hoards.
Try the pistachio flavored gelato al fresco at Geloato Paolin.
Enjoy dinner at the intimate Trattoria Da Arturo alongside the old guard of Venice.
Escape the crowds via vaporetto to Lido for a city beach day.
Be a quintessential tourist and have an Aperol spritz at Harry's Bar.
Visit Combo on the quiet side of Rialto to see where all the youth is hanging out.
Get up early, it is worth it.
Do not miss a meal at the legendary seafood haunt Trattoria Antiche Carampane.
Book a reservation to visit Fondazione Prada collection (Friday afternoons only).
Make an injury-free visit to Hospital SS Giovani E Paolo, the most beautiful hospital in the world.
Trust your gut and avoid virtually all recommendations from other tourists.
Find incredible leather, waxed cotton, and denim digs at Vintage Venezia .
Do not ask for directions, you will be intentionally misled.